Used Car Dealer Insider Secrets

How To Inspect a Vehicle

Used Car Dealer Reveals All

Okay, so you've narrowed down your choice of vehicle and you're about to go and see it. What do you look out for? Can you trust a used car dealer? How do you know if the car is a good one or a bad one? Will the car breakdown on the way home?

The good news is you don't have to be an expert to spot a bad vehicle. Nor do you have to rely on what you're being told by a salesperson.

Of course they're not always helpful and some will try and "sell" you the car that gives them the best commission or one that has been in stock for ages.

I have to say, most car salespeople are good and honest and will go out of their way to help you find the right car for you. But even the good salespeople don't always know how to look over a car so its best that you do.

Here we go . . .

Examine The Paperwork

When viewing a car, either privately or with a used car dealer, do it quietly and systematically, and without the seller or salesperson hovering over your shoulder. Ask to be left alone if possible, or take a friend to decoy him away. If you have asked the right questions on the telephone, then there is no need for the salesman to be chattering away.

On a private sale, start by examining the documents. There is no point in getting all excited about a car that may be stolen, crashed and rebuilt, or generally neglected. The seller may actually be a small-time trader working on the side. The log book (V5), MOT certificate and service record all have a tale to tell, especially when viewed together. (If you are buying from a used car dealer, you can leave this till last, but make sure you do check them).

Once you are satisfied with the documents and the vehicle’s authenticity do not put them aside. You will need to check the vehicle identification numbers against those listed in the documents. The VIN is stamped into the chassis and on a small plate that is riveted under the bonnet. The seller should know where they are.

Examine The Bodywork

Going on to examine the vehicle, start with the bodywork. Stand four or five yards away and study the panels. Are they all the same colour? Then go to each corner in turn and look directly down the side of the car – any ripples or dents are more evident from this angle. (To do justice to this type of inspection, the light needs to be good and will be impossible in the rain).

The condition of the paintwork should be consistent on all areas of the car; any that are better or worse indicate an area of repair. Run your fingers under the doors (they should feel smooth). Any rust will form here and on the wheel arches first, so check them too.

Any car that has had bodywork repairs involving anything less than a top-notch re-spray will show the fact under sodium street lighting. It is amazing what this type of illumination shows up; if you are in any doubt about a car’s bodywork, arrange to view it under orange street lamps!

When you open the doors and bonnet make sure that the paint inside is the same colour as that outside. Peel back the rubbers to make sure. Any overspray on the rubbers, tyres or badges indicates that recent bodywork repairs have been carried out.

Tyres are expensive – and remember to check the spare. Make sure that the tread is sufficient. Any uneven wear may suggest that the tracking is out, the steering or suspension worn or that the car has been rebuilt incorrectly. (Don’t be fooled if the wear is on the rear tyres – they have probably been swapped from the front). Hold the wheels firmly with both hands and try to rock them. There should be no play. If you can feel or hear a knock, then parts are worn.

Examine The Interior

Whilst looking at the dashboard and interior trim check for unusual holes, sometimes masked by grommets, or extra wiring signifying that the vehicle has had a radio or meter fitted, and hence has been used as a police car, taxi or for private hire. If you suspect that this is the case then pay particular attention to the roof, where extra aerials and roof-lights or signs would have been fitted; sometimes these are masked by the fitting of a cheap pop-up sun-roof.

Incidentally, ex-police cars may have been driven somewhat enthusiastically, but they will also have been impeccably maintained – especially the larger road traffic cars and those used for driving instruction. Taxis and private hire vehicles, on the other hand, are often run on a tight budget.

It’s no good buying a car and then finding out you cannot get comfortable in it because of a faulty seat. Sit in the driver’s seat and adjust it to your liking. While you are there, turn on the ignition and try the wipers, indicators and anything else that you fancy (they will all cost money if they are broken).

Start The Engine

Start the engine (with a diesel, ensure that it is absolutely cold before you do so – if it has been run recently then come back another time). As you turn the key look in the mirror: blue smoke can indicate a worn engine, whether petrol or diesel. Reluctance to start, particularly on diesels, can be expensive as can excessive rattling noises.

With the engine running push the brake pedal down. Anything more than 3 cm of travel indicates worn brakes, air in the system or leaking parts. With the foot brake applied, work the handbrake. It should only travel four or five notches – any more and new parts may be required.

With handbrake fully applied and the engine on a fast tick-over, depress the cluth and move the gear lever through all the positions (it is not unknown for six-speed gear knobs to be fitted to five-speed cars). Balking, clunking or rattling all signify problems. Many four-wheel-drive cars have a second gear lever operating the high and low ratios and selecting the 4WD option. Make sure that this is in working order.

On automatic gearboxes the selector should be moved into all positions. The car must not creep when in gear with the engine idling and the hand brake off. Neither should the engine stall when the car is in gear.

Faulty power steering may also stall an idling engine as the steering wheel is turned to full lock; the front wheels should turn smoothly without juddering. If feasible, put the car into second gear and, with the handbrake still applied and the engine revving at around 2,000 rpm, let the clutch out steadily. If the car stalls, all is well, but if the clutch or the handbrake slips problems and expense are just around the corner.

With the engine running, open the bonnet and listen very carefully. Rattling or knocking sounds are expensive. If the engine bay has not been steam cleaned, look for signs of oil or coolant leaks; corroded brake-pipes are another indication of costly problems.

Switch the engine off and examine the oil on the dipstick. If it is black, and the oil filter looks as if it has been on years, then the car has not been regularly serviced. Take off the oil-filler cap and look inside. White gunge indicates that the cylinder head-head gasket may be leaking. The condition of the HT leads, battery terminals, hoses and brake fluid (brown is old, new is gold) all give an indication of whether the car has been looked after.

Look at the exhaust for any oily, black deposits inside the tailpipe (these indicate a worn engine). All exhausts will show signs of rusting within weeks of being fitted, and in any case they usually rust worse from within. Check instead for temporary exhaust repairs: welding or exhaust bandages.

Without having moved the car an inch, you should now have a pretty good idea of whether it is in good condition and what faults there are, if any.

At a Used Car Dealer

A used car dealer will usually stand the cars on their pitch just as they came in from the previous owner, cosmetic details aside. If you find any major (or indeed minor) problems, but decide to buy the car providing they are rectified, then make sure both that this stipulation is included in the contract and that the car is checked before payment to see that it has been met.

Whist at the used car dealer pitch or showroom, have a good look round the other cars in stock. This will give you an idea of the type of trader or used car dealer you are looking to do business with. Are the cars well prepared and valeted? How many appear to have had major bodywork repairs?

On a pitch of say twenty cars of around three to five years old you would expect three or four to show signs of repainting or bodywork repairs. If the majority appear to have been recently painted, then alarm bells should start to ring, and it would be wise to look elsewhere.

Many garages advertise one-owner company cars with full service history; these should have a service record completed by the franchise dealer. Such vehicles will usually have been well maintained. The tyres will be top brands, and engine consumables, such as hoses and oil-filters, will bear the manufacturer’s name. If they do not, then the car is not what it is portrayed as and may be an accident rebuild or stolen/recovered. Always insist that the used car dealer confirms in writing that the car is clear on HPI, i.e. it has not been involved in an accident or theft claim and there is no outstanding hire-purchase levy on it.

A used car dealer who supply cars with full MOTs usually have an arrangement with a friendly testing station. It may be prudent, if feasible, to nominate a neutral garage (or one known to you) for the MOT test.

The Test Drive

Sooner or later you will, or should, test-drive the car of your choice. If the drive is arranged through a used car dealer you will find that everything has been arranged to present the car in its best light. The route is likely to be smooth, fast and traffic free, and your salesperson will drive first; his experience with different cars should ensure that the car will perform well.

When it is your turn, make sure that the radio is off and ask the salesman to be quiet, so that you can hear any squeaks, rattles or other noises. You need to find a quiet stretch of road – though an industrial estate is best. Drive at around 30 mph and slowly take your hands off the steering wheel. Any tendency for the car to veer left or right may signify tyre, tracking or suspension wear; it may also be a sign of a rebuilt bent car. (Don’t forget, though, that any camber on the road will also cause drift).

Repeat the exercise, this time braking progressively; any sideways movement could be a sign of any of the problems just mentioned, or of worn suspension or faulty brakes. Accelerate hard up to third gear whilst checking the rear-view mirror. Then decelerate, again checking behind. Smoke is bad news. Use all the gears, accelerating and decelerating in each. Any clunks, whines, rattles or untoward noises mean trouble. Automatics should change smoothly without any noise or juddering.

When in top gear try the kick-down whilst keeping an eye on the rear-view mirror; the car should drop a gear or two and accelerate away strongly, without leaving a cloud of smoke behind.

Take the car to a deserted car-park or somewhere similar. Employ full left lock and drive around in a circle. Repeat with right lock. Any clicking sounds indicate worn drive shafts (expensive) or, on rear-wheel-drive cars, a worn differential (equally expensive). Repeat the exercise in four-wheel drive, if applicable.

Don’t be fobbed off by a used car dealer or seller who claims that the faults you have found are minor. If this is true, why have they not been fixed?

That in a nutshell, is how to assess a vehicle. It is not 100% fool-proof (no system is), but by checking all the major points thoroughly and leaving your rose-tinted glasses at home, you should be able to sort out a good car from a bad one.

If you intend to spend a lot of money on a car and are unsure of your own ability to assess the vehicle, then you can obtain professional help. Car breakdown organisations, such as the RAC and AA, offer an inspection service. A qualified mechanic will thoroughly examine the car and then prepare a report which will itemise any faults found and offer an opinion on whether the car is genuinely as described by the seller.

This type of service is also available from independent vehicle-examiners who advertise in car magazines and YellowPages (if you use an independent, make sure that they are registered with one of the trade associations and holds more than a GCSE in mechanical engineering). Obviously this type of professional examination costs money, and you cannot afford to have it done on every car under consideration. Use it only when you have settled on a particular car and the seller cannot or will not offer a written assurance of the history and that the car is HPI clear.

Remember that the onus is on you to provide car insurance cover when taking a private seller’s vehicle out for a spin. Do not be tempted to risk a drive without being covered with car insurance. You will be driving a strange vehicle that will handle differently to your own, and all sorts of things will be on your mind. Don’t chance it. If necessary, ask the owner to drive; you can direct him into carrying out the tests while you make notes.